Home to some of the highest mountain peaks in the world, Nepal is a land of plenty for mountain climbing. Of these, Mera and Island Peak are two of the most popular climbing peaks.
These peaks are an excellent introduction to high altitude mountain climbing in the Everest region.
You can climb each of these peaks in individual, or in separate climbing trips or on a joint trip.
The Mera and Island Peak Climbing via Amphu Labtsa Pass is a combined climbing trip that allows you to summit over both these peaks.
Highlights of Island Peak and Mera Peak Climbing
- Climb to the summit of 2 of the highest trekking Peaks (Mera and Island Peak) in Nepal on a single trip
- Fantastic panorama of snow-capped mountain peaks of Mt.Everest, Lhotse, Kanchenjunga, Ama Dablam and Cho Oyu from Mera Peak
- Incredible view of Amphu Laptsa Pass from both Mera and Island Peak
- Amphu Laptsa Pass at 5845m
- Fantastic views of the Himalayas including Mt. Ama Dablam, Makalu, Lhotse from Island Peak
- Exciting flight to and from Lukla
- Lush green forests of rhododendron, magnolia, birch, and pine
- Seto Pokhari- a sacred lake at over 5000m
- Explore the culture and lifestyle of the world famous ‘Sherpa’ people
- Amazing view of Island Peak (6189m) and Mera Peak (6476m) from Amaphu Laptsa Pass
- Explore the beautiful and remote region of Hindko and Hongo valley
Trek Permits for Island Peak and Mera Peak Climbing
You will need the following permits for this expedition.
- Local (Everest Region) Area Permit
- Island Peak Climbing permit
- Mera Peak Climbing permit
Note: You can get all these permits from Kathmandu or allow us to help you with these.
Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing Difficulty
The level of difficulty of any treks and climbs to the Himalayas depends on various factors.
This expedition or climb is a strenuous trek in the rugged terrains of the Everest region.
You will be spending a week (roughly 8-9 days) over 5100m.
You will climb 2 peaks over 6000m- Mera Peak (6476m) and Island Peak (6189m). Along with this, you will make a tough technical crossing of the Amphu Labtsa pass (5700m).
Along with accommodating in tea houses, you will be camping as well in the snowy surrounding.
Hence, Mera Peak, Amphu Labtsa and Island Peak, all involve a different kind of adventure. You also need to have prior mountaineering experience for this expedition.
Along with this, you must have a reasonable fitness level along with good mental health.
If you don’t have the experience and reasonable fitness level, this can be a very difficult journey for you.
Mera Peak Difficulty
Although taller, Mera Peak is less challenging than Island Peak.
To overcome the difficulty of Mera Peak, Basic technical climbing skills are necessary.
Mera Peak is a straightforward mountain climb except for the final 30-40m climb. This small section has a slope of around 40 degrees of ice/snow. You will need to use basic mountaineering tools such as ice axe, fixed ropes, crampons for this section.
Amphu Labtsa Pass Difficulty
This Pass is more technical than Mera Peak. You will surmount a series of ice steps. You need to use a fixed rope (for safety) for this to reach the rocky crest.
Once on the summit, you will use a figure 8 to make an abseil on the snowy terrain. You must be very careful during this point of the climb. You must have the knowledge on how to fix ropes and ice axe.
Prior climbing training can be helpful in this situation. Once on easier slopes, you will not need to use this.
Island Peak Difficulty
Island Peak is more technical than Mera Peak. You need to climb 45-degree snow-covered slopes on this climb. The summit ridge is also completely exposed.
You need to use fixed lines on all the exposed sections. Rope climbing skills are a must for this climb. You will also be using ladder crossings. You need to have proper mountaineering training for this.
There are many places in Kathmandu that provide this training. You can let us help you with this. Brief training to refresh your training skills also take place before the climb.
|Day 01||Arrive at Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel||1345m|
|Day 02 Day||Sightseeing around Kathmandu + Trekking & Climbing Preparation||1345m|
|Day 03||Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla & Trek to Chhuthang||Lukla: 2850m|
|Day 04||Trek from Chhuthang to Tuli Kharka via Zatrawala Pass||Tuli Kharka: 4100m, Zatrawala Pass: 4600m||5-6 hours|
|Day 05||Trek from Tuli Kharka to Kothe||4182m||6-7 hours|
|Day 06||Trek from Kothe to Thangnak||4,360m||4-5 hours|
|Day 07||Trek from Thangnak to Khare||4690m||5-6 hours|
|Day 08||Trek to Mera Base Camp||5300m||3-4 hours|
|Day 09||Trek to Mera High Camp||5700m||3-4 hours|
|Day 10||Summit Mera Peak and descend to Kongma Dingma||Mera Peak: 6461m|
Kongma Dingma: 4850m
|Day 11||Trek from Kongma Dingma to Seto Pokhari via Honku Valley||Seto Pokhari: 4825m|
Honku Valley: 5035m
|Day 12||Trek to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp||5650m||5-6 hours|
|Day 13||Trek to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp via Amphu Lapcha La Pass||Amphu Lapcha Base Camp: 5300m|
Amphu Lapcha La Pass: 5845m
|Day 14||Trek to Island Peak Base Camp||5087m||5-6 hours|
|Day 15||Summit Island Peak and back to Base Camp||Island Peak: 6189m||9-10 hours|
|Day 16||Trek from Island Peak Base Camp to Dingboche||4260m||5-6 hours|
|Day 17||Trek from Dingboche to Namche Bazaar||3440m||6-7 hours|
|Day 18||Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla||2850m||6.5- 8 hours|
|Day 19||Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu||1345m|
|Day 20||International Departure as per your flight schedule|
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